DESIGNER : ATSUSHI OKUBO
- Clothes for enjoying coordination, proposed by the great stylist Okubo -
Atsushi Okubo has been a stylist for major performing arts such as actors, musicians, and Kabuki actors in recent years. He has worked on styling for all brands regardless of mode or street in fashion magazines, and his name is known throughout Japan. <The StylistJapan> is a brand that he started with his own career and thoughts of returning to the origin. Making suits from workwear materials, they created an unprecedented genre that no one has tried and completed one mold. Inspiration from musicians born in the golden age of rock in the late 1960s, and work as a stylist who still can't stand the offer, continue to give the brand a variety of ideas. He responded to an interview with FLK before he expanded the brand globally. I would like you to understand the essence of Mr. Atsushi Okubo's awesomeness from this interview.
I decided to make a jacket out of workwear material
"I started the brand in 2006. I've been wearing a lot of DC brands and high-end brands myself. Starting with <Yohji Yamamoto>, <COMME des. GARCONS.
(Comme des Garcons)>, I've been wearing Italian high-end brands, really various brands. When I thought I was tired of it, the Urahara guys came out. I think it was around 1992-93. At that time, I had a lot of commercial work, so I often went to locations such as LA and NY. So, when I go to America, the ones who think it's cool are the people walking on the street. It looks really cool. It's like Santa Monica Beach, the relaxed style of those who are on the beach and those who live freely is imprinted on my mind. It's a mesh cap, a checkered shirt, denim or chinos. When I thought that dressing like that was cool, I saw Henmi-kun and Nishiura-kun when they started <TENDERLOIN> outside the Shibaura Gold store.
I saw it in. There was a space outside the gold where the catering truck stopped and had a meal, but I saw them there. That was a shock, it was cool. There are people in Japan who are wearing check shirts, work pants and mesh caps so cool. I saw it from a distance, but I wondered what they were wearing (laughs). Before that, it was sold Tenderloin products at Space, so I felt that there was something cool every time I went to lease. At that time, they were making basic denim or ice hockey jersey. With that as a trigger, I started to think that basic workwear was good again. What if people like them wore suits? I'm starting to think. There was no jacket like that. I started to wear such parentheses and tried on the jacket of <Brooks Brothers> or the jacket of old clothes, the length is not balanced. On the contrary, if it is something like <BEN DAVIS>, it feels like a shop coat or coveralls. So I wondered if there was a jacket that I could wear on top of Ben Davis or Dickies work pants? I thought about making a jacket out of workwear material. That was the beginning (of The StylistJapan). It's a jacket that can be tied up with a chambray shirt, with a box silhouette and a short length. I want to got there".
–––The roots of the brand start are styles that make use of workwear. Then he says.
"The rest is the 2004 Tokyo collection. Miyashita-kun (the designer of number nine at the time, now the designer of Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist) did the last collection in Tokyo, under the Tokyo Tower. At that time, I saw it because it was the last time in Tokyo.
On the other side, Nishi-kun, Kanji-kun (TENDERLOIN at that time, now Masis), Mura-kun (M & M custom furniture), and Tetsu-kun (WTAPS designer). They were all in the front row (laughs). It was fun just to see it. So, I was in charge of the costume for the drama "Pride" The theme is ice hockey.The Tenderloin collection at that time was inspired by CHIEFS as a motif from the movie "Slap Shot", and it was ice hockey after all.
That's it! I thought. I was wondering if he would cooperate with the costumes in the TV drama, but since it was just after Kanji-kun entered Tenderloin, I took the plunge and consulted. Kanji-kun was in (Fujii) Fumiya's office, so he knew about that. When I asked, "Can you lend me some clothes?", He cooperated.
When I think about it now, I think that was the point of drawing out (for me). So I wonder if the reason for the brand start was the day I saw them at Shibaura Gold. If I hadn't seen them over there, I would have checked the clothes they made somewhere, but that was a turning point. "
–––And I asked about the rock that has the roots of Mr. Okubo.
"I often get inspiration from musicians. I look at the jacket photos and think that I want it to dress up for my styling. It's for an exhibition DM, it's for a bandana, it's for a sweater. It's all from jacket photos. My favorite album was released in 1987-72. "Sergeant Peppers (Lonely Hearts Club Band)" had a strong impact.
Group Sounds when I was in elementary school, and Beach Boys. So, when I got tired of GS, listen to Otis Redding's "Dog of Bay". Next is the (Rolling) Stones. Like "Street Fighting Man". When I listened to Stones, I realized that there was something close to rhythm and blues. The next theme will be Allman (Brothers Band)'s "Fillmore (East Live)", monochrome. The cool thing is, when you turn the jacket over, you can see the roadie, right? Roadie has a worker's beer, Pubst Blue Ribbon. This is the point. After all it's this beer. I'd like Duane (Allman) or Dickey Betts to wear Dickies that I'm doing this season at that time. But they were really young, they were in my mid-20s at the time. When we opened the jacket of "Brothers & Sisters", a picture of the family came out, which was irresistible (laughs). It's cool as it was drew it in the picture. Long hair, teardrops, and their wives, they're cool. The album came out when I was in high school, but at first it was like an American child alone on it, but when I opened it, it was so cool. The impact was also amazing. "
–––Every season, items that homage rock masterpieces appear, but his deep insight is well represented. We also asked about a number of collaborations with Japanese brands.
"It's a coincidence that there are more Japanese brands in collaboration. I'm going to do it with Miyahara-kun from <SCYE>. I have a double setup I ordered before, but the shape is amazing and I liked it so much. Based on that, I will make a setup with the fabric of <KAIHARA DENIM> that I made originally, for a limited time. I'm looking forward to this personally. That person (= Mr. Miyahara) is a master of patterns. I've had a long relationship. In collaboration with Tenderloin, there is a classic shape in my brand. I wanted to do that with the material of Tenderloin, so I approached it from myself. From there it's started. I used a lot of nerves, but I can't afford. He liked the amazing shape. In addition to the classic hop sack and the Dickies shape, he also liked the shawl color. Waffles, Guatemala, Moleskin, duck, denim, we did a lot. But that is also a break. I'm wondering if I have to do something new from now on. "
–––He has a close friendship with world-famous fashion curator POGGY. From there, a new work was born.
"It may not be very relevant, but I think I was the first to set up Dickies. I came to it until I got tired of it. I wanted to try something new again. At that time, I happened to talk with Ogi. Ogi told me that I want flare. I've been doing (3 pieces of Ditzky's) for many years, and now I can do about one rack, and stop it. This is what I'm going to do with Ogi (* Dickies setup in collaboration with POGGYTHEMAN with flared pants). After all feelings are rock. There is an album jacket in which three people from a band called America (* a British three-piece band that debuted in 1971) are wearing suits (* two pieces, "HAT TRICK" and "GREATEST HITS"). And RY COODER's flashy jacket ("Bop Til You Drop"), I think the feeling is the source of inspiration. That's why the topic is surprisingly endless (laughs). "
–––And the last thing he said was about the brand new chapter.
"The workwear suit that came from the beginning of the brand was completed after 10 years. From here, I feel like I've broken it once. It may be an overstatement to break it, but I made a mold with 3 pieces of hopsack. I wondered if it was made and completed with 3 pieces of Dickies. I'm thinking of doing something new from here onward, and I'm in the process of exploring it. "
Dickies × The Stylist Japan
3 pieces in collaboration with stylist Japan's classic <Dickies>. The jacket has original silver buttons and a spacious boxy silhouette. The best is a colorless work silhouette. The pants have a silhouette that is tapered from below the knees with plenty of space around the thighs. The color is olive.
Dickies × The Stylist Japan
3 pieces in collaboration with stylist Japan's classic <Dickies>. The jacket has original silver buttons and a spacious boxy silhouette. The best is a colorless work silhouette. The pants have a silhouette that is tapered from below the knees with plenty of space around the thighs. The color is turquoise.
A mellow mood shirt jacket with original graphics printed on the entire surface. An open color silhouette with plenty of space on the body. Specifications with a front pocket. It is designed to be worn lightly.
Coach jacket with snap buttons and spindle. A mellow mood item with the original graphic printed on the entire surface. The shape of the cuff is shirt-shaped, and it is designed to be worn lightly.
T-shirt designed by Tenderloin designer Nishiura.
(Left) The brand logo is fused with the artwork of the British rock band "Jethro Tull".
(Right) Print a brand new graphic with the brand logo finished in a way that is unique to Mr. Nishiura.
OPEN COLLAR PAISLEY SHORT SLEEVE SHIRT
An open collar shirt with a spacious box silhouette. A simple design with an embroidered logo on the chest pocket. The coloring with good coloring is also fresh.
Easy silhouette linen mixed shorts. The mood is finished in the SS season with the squeeze pattern printed on the entire surface. The stitch color tone is also suppressed according to the fabric. The top button is a cat-eye button derived from workwear.
Easy silhouette surge-style pile fabric shorts. The ridges are damaged to give a feeling of fabric, and the indigo coloring is finished in a mood that is typical of the SS season. The stitch color tone is also suppressed according to the fabric.
Easy silhouette linen mixed shorts. The fabric is washed and finished in a SS season mood. The tone is suppressed with the same color stitching according to the fabric. The top button is a cat-eye button derived from workwear.
The connoisseur who has seen all brands and clothes finally arrived at American workwear. Tough fabric, basic silhouette, simple construction. Lastly, I would like to reiterate that The StylistJapan has reached that point where there is nothing better than this.
- PROFIEL -
Atsushi Okubo / Born in Hokkaido. Japan's leading stylist, The StylistJapan Director. He has worked on TV, commercials and fashion magazines for countless stylings. In recent years, he has announced a new setup in collaboration with fashion curator and close friend POGGY.