- Evolutionary designer brand leading the fashion scene -
Undoubtedly, Hiromichi Ochiai is one of the designers who is attracting worldwide attention in the current fashion world, and it is the creation that does not fit into the categorization made by critics. When he made his runway debut just three years after the brand was established, he caught the eye of Mr. Armani and made his world debut at an early stage. He has been awarded numerous honors, including being selected as the first Asian finalist at the LVMH Prize. On the other hand, there is also an aspect of running the brand with the same or more hardships as its honor. Glory and frustration, light and shadow. In his own words, he has been running for nearly 15 years, full of blood. That is why there is now. Designers who have experienced the rigors of the real world more than anyone else are natural but full of overwhelming persuasive power.
I'm shaving my life for making things, so the genre is not just mode and street.
"I started the brand in 2007. I've always liked fashion, and I really wanted to start a brand in my twenties. When we were young, the Ura-Harajuku movement was happening, and at the same time, Antwerps such as Margiela and Doris came in and opened various shops. Plus, there's Patagonia in Mejiro, what does it mean to make clothes out of plastic bottles? Information like that is also flowing. Since I have lived in such an era, I have been conscious of my dream of starting my own brand as soon as possible. So when I was 29, I created the brand <FACETASM>. It's not just one culture, it's been influenced by various cultures. Among them, the brand FACETASM seems to have started.
When I started the brand, it was in the heyday of the street, but one of my goals was to do a runway in order to do the brand. It was just in 2011, when it was introduced little by little in the media and was recognized, but there was the Tohoku earthquake. When the lights in Tokyo went out and it got dark, I wanted to do something myself. Mr. Yoshii (currently <MR.GENTLEMAN> designer) is going to hold an event at the Tokyo collection, so I was offered to do the show. The Tokyo collection was once canceled due to the Tohoku earthquake, and I was asked to do a runway to show new fashion in Tokyo. At that time, it was still the third year, and it was unknown , but I was allowed to do a show at the largest main hall in Midtown. That is the start. The runway was a lot of fun and I thought it would suit me. However, I was able to realize the first show immediately, so when I was wondering what would happen to the second show, I was allowed to do the show jointly with Mr. Oosumi's <Phenomenon>. I think this has led to further expansion of recognition. Even at the first show, Mr. Oosumi said, "It's a good chance to make your debut in the main hall of the Tokyo collection, so definitely do it." With the support of such fashion seniors, I'm gradually becoming able to do runways. So, when we were able to do it to some extent in 2014, we were able to do the runway at the end in Tokyo. At that time, Mr. Armani asked me, "Why don't you have a show in Milan?" Armani Theater has a facility built by Tadao Ando, and I was able to do a show there. So, the world debut is Milan. The following year, the story of the LVMH prize came. Unfortunately, I didn't win the award, but I was the first Asian to be selected as a finalist. At the same time, I was also in charge of costumes for the Olympics. "
–––Only 5 minutes from the start of the interview, the amount of inform fugeation. Precocious is exactly this.
"Since he was called by Armani in 2015 and made his world debut, in 2016 he won the LVMH prize and appeared in the men's Paris Fashion Week. After that, while gaining global recognition, while searching for their position as a brand in Tokyo, we could collaborate with Coca-Cola, Levi's, and Nike. While believing in my own creation and making strong things, I think that the current FACETASM is made up of the feelings of companies, friends, and collaboration partners who can sympathize with it. 2016 was especially big. After that, I think it's a reward for the fashion god that it possible to collaborate with the Jordan brand in AJ1 and Levi's. I really love fashion, and I feel like I've been doing it all the time, embodying the initial urge to take shape if I keep thinking about it. "
–––Many people would remember the collaboration with the world-famous big names
"I think it was the flow of Tokyo at that time that I started the runway. There was no one who raised the hand and said," Let's do it! " I think the runway was a little different. But I raised my hand and told the people what I wanted to do, so I got more support than I had imagined. I can't say it easily, but I felt that I liked it and my mission as a fashion brand. So, as the stage went up, I thought that if I cleared this, I would be able to see a different world of fashion. At that time, I was absorbed in myself, so I can't say anything when I think about it now (bitter smile).
This is the first collaboration with the Jordan brand in Japan. I still don't know why AJ1 was realized (bitter smile). The people may have thought that I was a minority while I was making strong creations. It is different from other people in the Tokyo brand. I think so is Russell Westbrook's White Knot. Jordan has a spirit of not being afraid of challenges, right? I'm full of blood, so it's one of the Tokyo brands (bitter smile). I think the surrounding environment has changed even more in the last few years. The scale of the collaboration partner has also changed. I was writing a profile yesterday, but it was pretty strong, my career (bitter smile). "
–––On the other hand, it was the days of trials that awaited Mr. Ochiai. Contradictions, conflicts, resentments. The god of fashion didn't just prepare for success roads.
"I'm the type of person who can be a little exposed as a designer, so I think that what you see is a little different from other people. However, I've been struggling to get a fair evaluation of the FACETASM brand. While making things from various directions, it may be a movement that everyone can't imagine. This isn't just for us, but the Tokyo brand has a Tokyo-like look, whether it's a T-shirt or sweatpants. However, it is divided into genres according to the criteria of critics such as street and mode and they are grouped between street and mode for us, but both are completely different. So I didn't really like being told between street and mode. At one point, it was a word that used to walk alone. As I said at the beginning, I like Patagonia, I like Margiela, I like undercover. Since I was born in such a place, it is based on Tokyo culture. Isn't that normal for us? That's why I don't like being tied up in such a boring category. Looking at Tokyo in the early 2000s, I think it's good that the content sent by overseas designers like Virgil is between street and mode, but the designers in Tokyo are different. I've felt a contradiction in the fact that the answer is simply that it's okay if it's cool. When I made my debut, I had a styling with two shirts wrapped around the waist, and it was written as Super Layered. But what is Super Layered? I thought that. I couldn't believe it would be the top of the article. Because if we want to wear two shirts, we do, don't we? I was surprised that the critics didn't have the concept of such a matter of course. I think there was a difference in that sense, when we started the brand. I'm shaving my life for making things, so I'm wondering if it's just not a mode or a street genre. "
–––Under these circumstances, the creation that stands out with each season. I asked about recent manufacturing.
"Of course there is a theme of creation, but the main premise is to make what I like and want to wear. That is the answer that came out while always working on various things at the same time. In my case, I'm making that I was finally looking for something like this. Even if there is something with a simple design, I'm not very conscious of it. However, I hope that it is one of the roles of mode clothes and suits to make you feel relaxed even a little in the current situation such as Corona. The answer to my own sense of the times is simple, when I think about what to do with different expressions and different faces, If you can see some items that make you feel simple, I think it's good because it will lead to growth as a brand.
The future keyword will be "initial impulse". It may be the part that I think I should do again now, or the part that I forgot. Strong creation, something like FACETASM, it can't be bent. If you make things as a creator in Tokyo, you will have a greater chance of seeing it from the world than in other countries. There are things like wanting the creation of our team to be seen by as many people as possible.
I've been talking a lot lately that it's really hard not to be able to runway because of Corona, but fashion movies have begun to be made all at once. I really like skate videos and I want fashion movies to be like that. People all over the world started watching videos all at once, and I felt that the fashion era had changed all at once. Among them, I think that one idea may exceed the Maison. I think it's a good opportunity for today's creators and brands like us. I would be happy if someone like Spike Jonze came out. The fluctuation of the trench coat and the fluctuation of the skate ollie are linked. Fashion movies are generally uploaded on YOUTUBE. Until now, DJs play songs in the current mood on the runway, but because of the copyright, YOUTUBE is NG. So we have to make all the music. The actors don't have to be model figures at all, because they don't have to show their whole body. It's been a year that fashion expressions have changed all at once like this. The runway is precious and beautiful for the brand that fascinates the collection, but it may be that various people have a chance. I still think that the number one must be the runway, but the fact that the number of viewers has increased from 300 to 30,000 at once is huge. Somewhere Magazine has a London-based art and culture platform, where I published my last collection. It's a platform with about 1 million followers on Instagram. Send from the teaser of the teaser, do the teaser and send the main. By doing so, it became possible for artists and the people in the field that had never been reached. With this one challenge, the spread of fashion is changing steadily. So it's becoming an idea game, how much should you do differently from others? I feel like we are spotted through that. "
–––It was a deep content that was thin on Mr. Ochiai's current psychology, but he left these words at the end.
"FACETASM will be 15 years next year. My favorite things will not change, and I have to do my best every day for the customers who believed in us. My life style is not like that people feel as good as they think. I'm wondering if this is the case that I haven't made any predictions for future. "
The 2021SS collection incorporates the factors that influenced Mr. Ochiai into original details, designs and graphics. Each item with a stress-free and spacious silhouette has a unique look.
Left / A blouson that mixes 10 types of 80S and 90S nylon jackets and features a cut-back with the jersey material. The ribs on the sleeves and hem have gathers so you can wear it in an old-school silhouette.
Right / Long point cardigan with 4 types of nylon color blocks arranged in a cross shape and material switching. The width of the body is a loose silhouette.
A collaboration collection with BEYOND EXX specializing in denim fabrics.
Left / Oversized A denim jacket with a relaxed silhouette. It features a zipper design that runs from the side to the back, and can be worn in combination with items of the same type.
Tapered silhouette with overall details on the right / front and back pocket design. Loose silhouette with plenty of space around the waist and thighs.
Born in LA in 2019. Up-and-coming eyewear brand <AKILA> inspired by avant-garde 90s fashion. They handle a lot of voluminous sunglasses with vintage-like and thick fabrics. The eyewear collection for Facetasm. Available in 3 colors.
How easy it would be if we could live with the initial impulses we had when we were young. In many cases, we become acquainted and are dominated by what we think in our mind, and our actions are restricted. Instead, it's a return to doing the creations he believed in. That can be felt from the current FACETASM Ochiai.
- PROFIEL -
Hiromichi Ochiai / Born in Tokyo. FACETASM designer. 2007 Brand Start, 2011 Tokyo Collection, 2015 Milan Collection, 2016 LVMH Prize He has been selected as the first Asian finalist and has a brilliant career. He participated in the Tokyo collection for the first time in five years last year and became a hot topic, and is one of the leading designers in the current fashion scene.