- We want NY skaters to wear Knickerbockers, that is the origin of the brand -
Clothes that are just dressed up have become meaningless, and it has become essential for the past few years that the materials are functional and that they have high motor function. However, it is unexpectedly difficult to combine design and function. Simply put, the same clothes have completely different vectors. Most of the best designers understand this, so don't force theirselves into pursuing tactics in the fashion world. However, there is a chance to win in a genre that no one really faces. After understanding this, they approached making things like that <TAIGALIONA>. The Jodhpurs silhouette pants inspired by the craftsmen's Knickerbockers, the jet-black color palette mixed with red, and the functional materials dropped into all items are too clear conceptual collection developments. It may look quite fresh not only in Japan but also overseas.
TAIGALIONA is a fusion of the functionality of sports and the sociability of fashion.
"The parent company is a pioneer of plastering, and it is a long-established store founded in 1918. The owner was a person who studied fashion at Parsons Business College in NY, and the request was "I want to put Japanese Knickerbockers on the street heads on skates" at the start of the brand. From the hypothesis that Knickerbockers are easy to move and the silhouette of the thigh that can measure wind resistance is suitable for skating, we talked about the branding of TAIGALIONA and decided to propose from the concept. Since the parent company is a long-established plasterer, we decided to assemble TAIGALIONA while respecting the dignity of the company and revisiting Japanese-made and Japanese-origin workwear that can be put out in the United States. "
–––This concept, which sublimates Japanese craftsmanship into fashion, is quite novel. Next, I would like to ask about the origin of the brand.
"The owner has a son and a daughter, Taiga-kun and Riona-san, and to put it simply, it seems to be a tiger and a lion. From there, the brand name was named " TAIGALIONA". Tigers and lions have long been standard motifs for embroidery of Sukajan and Japanese patterns. However, instead of incorporating such Japanese embroidery into clothes as it is, I thought that a brand new item would be created by blending the functionality of sportswear and the toughness of workwear.
The concept of making things is 質実剛健. “質” is quality, and “実” is the added value of fashion. "剛" is strength and toughness. Sewing technology and stitch work possessed by workwear. "健" is the health of health. It may be a functional cutting that can be used for activities, or it may be a modern functional material. I'm doing design work with these four as the main concepts. Also, I am conscious of the utility wear required by business people. Mobile, gadgets, and clothing functions that are conscious of these items carried by modern people also coexist. Regarding the coloring, I am conscious of the jet black, which is a black ink with a strong redness peculiar to Japan. In terms of percentage, black is 70%, vermilion is 20%, and white is 10%. The basic color concept is white, which is slightly generated like Japanese paper. Based on these bases, TAIGALIONA's clothes are a fusion of the functionality of sports and the sociability of fashion.
Basically, the clothes of real workers are the main axis, and the pocket settings, length, silhouette, etc. are composed. This root is mainly the silhouette of ninja clothes in the sense that it is the most Japanese style. For example, hakama pants worn by ninja. The area around the thighs is wide and you can feel the wind. This acts as a measuring instrument to keep your body even when you are in a high place. In addition, the skinny silhouette around the ankle is a silhouette that is conscious of exercise performance such as handling feet, flying to high places, running, and so on. I was inspired by the hypothesis that the silhouette of ninja clothes that has existed since ancient times in Japan might be used in the uniforms of modern Tobi professions and what we now call Knickerbockers. "
–––The source of ideas is very unique. It was Italy that such a brand made its debut.
"It launched in Italy's Pitti Uomo last January. Ninja keywords are pervasive globally and it was very easy to explain the silhouette. The content that is popular overseas, such as the anime "NARUTO," also helped the ninja to have a sense of intimacy. The evaluation at Pitti was very good, and the creative director of Tranoy in Paris rushed in. I asked them to see the product and explained it, and I also received a request to invite us to Paris. As for men's wear these days, it seems that the current situation in France is that they are beginning to focus on innovative wear. In addition to the smart appearance, I had the impression that the functionality, wearing comfort, and pocket settings that could keep the gadgets were awesome in Europe. Regarding materials, for example, there is a shell series to block rain and wind, flameproof materials that are resistant to flames, sweat absorption and quick drying, UV protection, etc. The material also has a function to protect the body from natural phenomena. For the 21SS season, we place particular importance on sweat absorption and quick drying, and we value the feeling of exhilaration when wearing it. The pattern design and functional cutting that take into consideration the raising and lowering of the arm are included. If I explain it in words, it's a lot of content, but I'm conscious of the coolness of the look and the symbols and signals of fashion. "
–––From here, we will also ask about the characteristics of the design. Why are the details that are usually hard to think of designed?
"From this year, the obligation to wear a harness called a safety belt has occurred in the world of Japanese workwear. When wearing a harness or when you wear the tool belt
The uniform world demands a setting that does not get in the way of the waist and makes it easy to access the pockets even with a harness. This idea is diverted to the clothes of TAIGALIONA. This is the reason why the pockets are set in positions that are not normally thought of when viewed as street fashion. However, I feel that this pocket layout looks fresh as a design, and I feel that I am watching the flow of items that are good sales from last season. Also, I wonder if the silhouette of the Knickerbockers variant series, which we call Jodhpurs, is beginning to be accepted by the younger generation in Japan. Until now, there were only two poles, wide silhouette pants or skinny silhouette, but Jodhpurs can create a new silhouette. I think that was also new or fresh.
So, as I said at the beginning, the core item that be able to clear the mission of wanting the owner to skate at Jodhpurs and wear Japanese Knickerbockers is Nikkapokka. So, pants are one of the items that we're good at, or that we keep focusing on and developing. Also, there is this motif and trademark of Honmaru, but it is a mark that has been inherited from the predecessor of the parent company. This is the mark originally attached to the fire extinguisher. In that sense, the happi coat, of course, has been flameproofed and its functionality has been modernized, but we always propose it as an item that can be incorporated into modern fashion every season. "
–––Here, I would like to ask about the new work of the 21SS season. How was the birth of the Tiger duck pattern that was co-created with artist MHAK?
"Looking at the lineup of products, we used to insert a characteristic color of red into the items last season, but this season I asked Mr. Mark to make a tiger motif as an element of the street. This time, we are proposing an item with the graffiti and tiger camouflage drawn by Mr. Mark in the color ratio. The factor that I thought was necessary for TAIGALIONA to go to the next phase is the pattern. What I was addicted to was how to make Mr. Mark's pattern. I got the impression that it had the nuances of Japanese and Western eclecticity that the brand was looking for. That's why I ordered him to "make a tiger pattern that you imagine." When I ask a graphic artist to make a tiger pattern, it seems easy, but I think it's extremely difficult. But I was convinced that Mark could bring out the nuances of modern Japonism by assembling. This Tiger camouflage firmly expresses the DNA of Japan, which can be used globally. "
–––And finally, I asked about the new collection of Tiger Camouflage patterns.
"When I wanted to show the pattern in terms of area, I put it in the happi coat, which is the easiest to express. And shorts. As a collection, I wanted to keep the percentage of patterns that came in to the entire item to 30% to 50%. Because the basic is a black brand, other items control the area where the pattern can be seen by linking the tiger camouflage with black. It's a point that I use some of the sleeves and front. Also, since the coach jacket is the most street and modern item, we have adopted a method of fascinating the pattern by making it reversible and a method of turning it black.
I think that a normal fashion brand are changing its proposal every season, but the fashion flow is changing rapidly in the corona whirlpool. SNS and media transmission are becoming more important, but I think that the speed at which fashion is consumed by the media is accelerating. So, at TAIGALIONA, I would like to do something that does not blur the axis, such as adding a change every season with one pattern in the opposite form of acceleration. I would like to carefully evolve this motif as the main pattern of the brand. "
FIRE RESISTANCE HAORI >>
A happi coat long jacket that uses nylon, a fireproof material, as a standard item that continues to be released. The original tiger duck pattern created with artist MHAK is printed on the entire surface, and the large size hood is removable. The Marumoto logo is printed on the back. The body has a loose silhouette.
A coach jacket made from lightweight nylon material. Reversible specifications that can be worn on both sides A, the side with the original tiger duck pattern created with artist MHAK printed on the entire surface, and the all-black side. Snap buttons on the front and slash pockets on the sides. The body has a loose silhouette.
Nylon shorts printed with the original tiger duck pattern created with artist MHAK. The waist is an easy specification with eyelets and spindles. A slash pocket is attached to the side, and a D ring is attached to the right side of the belt loop. A loose silhouette with plenty of space around the waist.
A hooded jacket made of nylon with a double zip front. The front panel has both A-side specifications of tiger duck pattern and black. The armpits and elbow pads are also switched with a tiger duck pattern to add a design impact. The cuffs can be adjusted in size with Velcro.
A tanker jacket made of nylon, inspired by the military jacket found in vintage archives. A design accent is also added by switching the left arm from under the shoulder to the material printed with the original tiger duck pattern created with artist MHAK. Highly elastic jersey material is used for the front flap pockets, sleeves and hem ribs. Hexagon motif air holes are attached to the back yoke part.
Jodhpurs silhouette trousers using nylon material that continues to be released as a standard item. Switching the material with the original tiger camouflage pattern printed with artist MHAK on both sides. The hips reduce stress when worn by switching the material of the part where tension is applied. The waist is an easy specification with eyelets and spindles. A D ring is attached to the right side of the belt loop, and zippers are attached to both hem. A silhouette that sharply tapers from below the knee with plenty of space around the waist.
A flight jacket made from a polyester / cotton blend, inspired by the military jackets found in vintage archives. Large flap pockets on the front and slash pockets with concealed zips on both sides. Highly elastic jersey material is used for the ribs on the collar, sleeves and hem. Hexagon motif air holes are attached to the back yoke part.
Packable crew neck jacket using polyester material. A large pocket with a tool loop is placed on the front. Specifications that are easy to put on and take off because a concealed fastener is attached to the left collar. The back of the collar is mesh and the sleeves are ribbed jersey. Hexagon motif air holes are attached to the back yoke part.
Stretch shorts with a basic design using polyester material. A plastic D ring is attached to the right side of the front belt loop. The waist can be adjusted with drawstrings with a red tip at the tip. A straight silhouette with plenty of space around the waist and thighs.
Jodhpurs Trousers made of polyester material. A plastic D ring is attached to the right side of the front belt loop. The waist can be adjusted with drawstrings with a red tip at the tip. A silhouette that sharply tapers from below the knee with plenty of space around the waist.
Even if you look around the world, there are still few clothes that combine design and function. The mode feeling of the cutting edge silhouette, the MD composition is centered on the street, and the all-weather functionality is packed into an item that makes you want to wear it with all the elements you want. The brand's realized collection is worth a visit. Jodhpurs pants based on Knickerbockers may be an item that marks the beginning of a new era of fashion.
- PROFIEL -
Takao Yamashita / Born in Nagasaki Prefecture. He made his debut in the 90's with the collection brand <beauty: beast>. He succeeded in the Paris collection, and in 2000 the brand temporarily stopped working. In January 2020, Italy launched a new brand, Taigariona, at his Pitti Uomo. Currently, it is expanding at an accelerating rate in Japan.